Khaima is one of the most well regarded restaurants in Bali and the only authentic Moroccan eatery on the island. During high season, it’s impossible to get a table without booking in advance and many of the island’s celebrated chefs are frequently to be seen working their way through one of Khaima’s mighty cous cous dishes or a Tagine perhaps. Yet 20 years ago, Khaima’s proprietors, Driss and Nora, were living in Belgium working as an Insurance Broker and PA respectively…oh, and falling in love with each other. It was not long before they were married.
Brussels is a city with a sizeable Moroccan population, so for Nora to adapt to her new family circumstances was not too difficult – especially when she demonstrated to Driss’ Mother both enthusiasm and aptitude in cooking. “My Mother loves to cook,” Driss tells me, “she does a lot of event catering, like weddings, just because she loves it. And believe me, a Moroccan wedding is a big deal, there are often 400 or 500 guests.” For Nora, the biggest challenge in adapting to this new style of cooking was learning about spices. The western European culinary tradition tends to emphasise herbs above spices, but for the Moroccans, with their strong Middle Eastern influence, spice is integral to their cooking. “There were so many spices I had to learn about,” says Nora, a perpetually smiling woman with a quaint French accent to match her husband’s. “Cucuma (turmeric) pepper, Jamaican pepper, cumin…so many. And of course Ras El Rhanout.” Here Driss interjects, explaining that Ras El Rhanout is a special blend of around 36 different spices and essences including rose, cinnamon, anise and Jamaican pepper. It lies at the heart of any truly authentic cous cous or Tagine.
Driss and Nora finally made the decision to re-locate to Bali when Driss’ hair started falling out, much to his dismay “I wasn’t happy in Belgium, I was stressed out, but I held it all inside because I knew how much Nora enjoyed her job. But i started losing my hair, I knew we had to go.” So in 1998, the couple set up in Bali. The restaurant, however, would take a further three years to come to fruition. “Our friends kept suggesting it and actually it had been a dream of ours for many years,” says Nora. “When we finally decided to go ahead, I thought we were going to get a small place… Driss showed me this site and I thought he was mad!”
Khaima is far from small. It has a capacity of 100, with discrete areas where guests can dine, sip traditional mint tea or smoke flavoured tobacco through shared hookah pipes. Despite its size, it has a strong communal feel to it. “We Moroccans are very social and hospitable people and the enjoyment of food is one of the main ways we express this. We wanted to capture this atmosphere with Khaima,” says Driss.
This they have, creating a cosy, intimate feel somewhere between a Bedouin tent and the Kazbah. There’s an abundance of cushions, low tables and stained glass lamps and the staff are both friendly and highly capable. The food excels. “Moroccan cuisine is considered some of the best in the world,” Driss explains. “It takes a long time to prepare too,” adds Nora, “I come in here at 8 every morning to start cooking.”
The formula of authentic, home cooked cuisine and intimate atmosphere, with Driss playing the jovial host and Nora looking after the food has proven a favourite amongst long term residents and visitors alike.
“Now all that remains is to get my Mother out here, that will be the true test,” laughs Driss. No doubt she’d feel right at home in this zestful slice of Morocco in the heart of Bali.